ASK ED MARIJUANA GROW TIP #45: THE BOTRYTIS SOLUTION
There was a slight attack of botrytis due to humid conditions and stagnant air—circulation was minimal with only passive ventilation during part of the day.
We immediately went into protective mode—using Ed Rosenthal’s Zero ToleranceTM Herbal Fungicide diluted by 25%, and adding Serenade concentration at half the recommended dosage. Our reasoning was that the ERZT would kill the botrytis immediately and leave a fungicidal residue of potassium bicarbonate, which is a fertilizer usable by the plant. The Serenade also attacks the botrytis directly, thus creating a redundant kill situation. In addition, the active organisms in the Serenade continue to have residual benefit.
This has several advantages over physically removing the infected tissue while the cola is still on the plant. The first is that in removing the dead tissue there is a good possibility of damaging the healthy tissue and infecting it, since you are handling the infected area and reproductive spores may disburse to surrounding plant tissue. The second problem with it is that it is often hard to distinguish between infected and non-infected areas, especially in large buds with crevices.




Ed, it seems this year the bugs are walking through all the natural sprays in your garden saver book and my neighbors gardener blew debris all over my ladies late in flower recently so now I have some powdery mildew on one plant and a little septoria on 2 others. I sprayed them with hydrogen peroxide and iso alcohol diluted It’s late in flower and I hesitate to spray anything on them further. Thoughts?
In the books MJ Garden Saver and the new MJ Pest & Disease Control you’ll see solutions that can be applied late in the season. Have you tried the combination discussed in the blog? That’s very effective and can be used within 10 days of harvest.
Another solution uses milk. Use one part milk to nie parts water — any kind of milk is OK, whole, skim, etc. Per quart of water add 1 teaspoon potassium or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). These create a more alkaline leaf surface and fungi can not grow in an alkaline environment.
Best to spray early in the day or early in the light period so that the liquids have a chance to dry before dark.
For septoria this late in the game try controlling by removing infected leaves. The powdery mildew solutions may also help with this disease.
Disregard typo — here is corrected recipe for the milk solution:
Another solution uses milk. Use one part milk to nine parts water — any kind of milk is OK, whole, skim, etc. Per quart of water add 1 teaspoon potassium or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). These create a more alkaline leaf surface and fungi can not grow in an alkaline environment.
I went to the store and noted everyone copying you so I bought some serenade and made a fresh batch of your magic spice tea (with a touch of neem and canna cooking oil) for bugs and I can say the serenade kicked butt and the infected parts dried up and shriveled off nicely without impacting the good part of the flower. I can now finish them without worrying about dew. I also added Bt and found one caterpillar dead with little damage. This year I added silica to my fert schedule and it seems to help the plant resist any problem spreading.
Thanks again
Hi There ed. Just finished ur book, the one with the leaf on the front. Great read and well edited. I’ve forever had a problem with mould being close to the equator. I have tried everything and the only thing that works for me is weak diluted clove oil ad a foliage spray, what was ur secret recipe.
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